W124 - Cold and Warm Engine Start
As I browsed a number of videos and watch how a W124 M104 engine starts, I noticed that mine does not have graceful starts.
The engine runs after cranking and most of the time in one crank but as the engine starts there were some observations that are not what I saw on the other cars:
- On cold starts, the car engine revs to 850 rpm and idles there
- On warm starts, the engine revs to about 2100 rpm and sequentially reduces to about 800 rpm in 10 or so seconds
- The engine does not stop once it has started
Upon the replacement of the OVP relay, there was a change in behavior where, during the warm, the engine start and revs to 1200 rpm and gradually reduces to 700 or so rpm, instead of the earlier 2100 or so rpm start. This is an improvement but the cold start remains the same with no sign of improvement. After doing some reading online, I understood that one of the components that are involved in a cold start is the air intake temperature (AIT) sensor.
According to dutchfixmycar.net, the air intake temperature sensor is responsible for detecting the temperature of the air that is coming into the engine so that it can relay the data to the car’s main computer. The computer then controls the fuel-to-air ratio the engine needs for proper combustion and ignition under those specific circumstances (and parameters). For instance, if the sensor detects that the air being sucked into the engine is warmer since the air is less dense the engine will need less fuel for proper combustion. When the IAT sensor begins to fail, one can imagine that it will cause significant changes in performance.
While some of the online forums were pointing my issue to a number of things that need to be checked such as the OVP, OVP fuse, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, throttle body, and even the AIT sensor.
With the exception of the throttle body (electronic throttle actuator) and AIT sensor, I have either checked or replaced all the other items and they seem to be in good working condition.
Today, I decided to check the AIT sensor to see what the issue could be. What I noticed is that firstly, the mount connectors are broken on both ends. After pulling it out, I noticed that the wire to the sensor was coated with a film of dust and oil.
I decided to give it a shot and pulled out the throttle body cleaner spray and sprayed it onto it, all of the dirt came off and the temperature wire became clean. Before I jump to replace the sensor, at least I can see how it works if it is still working. I also cleaned the connector pins. After that is done and the sensor is dry, I refitted the sensor back in the air intake housing followed by plugging in the connection socket back.
That followed by me starting the car. It did some improvement but I am not completely sure as the engine was started a few minutes earlier and would have somewhat warmed the engine. What was noticed was the cold start is now starting at 1200 rpm and reducing to about 700 rpm gracefully.
I have ordered a replacement AIT sensor and the new part has been redesigned. Will have it installed and test along with the replacement throttle body that was sourced. My mechanic did caution me that the current throttle body I have seems to have a bad wire loom, it is damaged and could be the reason why the car is behaving as such.
The fix did show some improvement over the idling and also the smoothness of the engine, but it is not quite fixing the cold and hot start issue that I am trying to resolve.
Update #2:
The throttle body has been fitted into the car and while we were at it, we also replaced the AIT sensor. The sensor had an updated design while the throttle body is from VDO, made in 2013 I believe. Upon installation, much to my dismay, the issue was not resolved.
In the process, we also found that the air cond relay which is seated where the ECU is has been removed leaving a bunch of wires to be fitted bypassing the relay completely. We do not know at the moment what was done or why at moment.
At this juncture, we do not know why the car is behaving like it does, what we do know is
- The air-cond compressor should only run 3 seconds after the engine starts
- The ECU may need to re-adapt with the new throttle body
- The vacuum that goes to the gearbox has no suction
- There is a fuse (fuse 7 - 16a - red) that breaks the following circuit (bolded ones are of interest)
7 | 8 | Automatic Climate Control |
16 (1) | Automatic transmission electric: | |
Kickdown solenoid valve | ||
Transmission mode valve | ||
Data link connector, terminal 16 | ||
Throttle valve actual valve potentiometer | ||
Blower motor | ||
Heater/climate control system: | ||
Electromagnetic clutch | ||
A/C compressor | ||
Auxiliary fan relay, terminal 86 Auxiliary fan relay (stage 2) | ||
O2S (after TWC) heater relay module | ||
Climate control system | ||
Monovalve, duo valve | ||
Auxiliary coolant pump | ||
Fresh/recirculated air flap switchover valve (switchover valve block) | ||
Rest relay module | ||
Stationary heater control module | ||
Bypass valve | ||
Purge control valve/fuel tank vent valve | ||
Upshift delay solenoid valve | ||
Heated windshield washer nozzle | ||
Heated windshield washer system | ||
Kickdown cut-out relay module/compressor | ||
HFM-SFI control module | ||
EGR switchover valve 2 | ||
Resonance intake manifold switchover valve | ||
Air pump switchover valve | ||
Adjustable camshaft timing solenoid | ||
Electromagnetic air pump clutch | ||
Control/function indicator lamp | ||
ASD/ASR/4-MATlC Backup lamp |
This is being monitored and once the replacement sensor, as well as the throttle body, is fitted, there is very little left to be checked. I hope there is no wiring issue that I causing all of this.
Update #3:
The issue is not resolved in this episode and the continuation of this issue is documented here.
Pictures:
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